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Post by Cooper on Feb 16, 2006 16:54:48 GMT
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Post by Cooper on Feb 16, 2006 16:55:30 GMT
last 2 pictures are the original 95pro spur thing stuff
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Post by giuseppe on Feb 23, 2006 23:44:32 GMT
hi I'm new of the forum. (I'm also italian...so forgive, please, my English)
i have a 95pro model, with no slipper. as I've been out of predator's world for a while, can you tell me if there is any possibility of changing the original spur gear with a most useful slipper
thanks
Giuseppe
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Post by Cooper on Feb 24, 2006 10:09:57 GMT
HI ! well you can but you'll have to find a complete central shaft and slipper and the one way or the normal coupling you have on the front of the shaft. If I were you I wouldn't drive it anymore, it's an old car and it's someting to put on display, that's what I do with my old predators  can you post some pictures of your car please ? |
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Post by PeterEllis on Feb 25, 2006 18:58:37 GMT
There is actually a way to remove the rear coupling only  on the Predator shaft. In the early days, in the event that the coupling had been glued incorrectly, TTech advisised heating the coupling up to melt the adhesive inside the coupling. To do this you need to heat up over a gas flame for example a gas cooker ring. My dad did this on an old XT front coupling where the coupling had broken and it does work. You need to be very careful that you don't set the carbon fibre on fire , but it really does work - it may actually be in the text of the XT manual that was recently uploaded. For those that didn't want to buy a complete shaft you could buy the slipper only and this would be the only way to fit it to an existing shaft.... Are you sure it was a 95 Pro ? I wonder where the slipper went, it's not the lower spec 95 One or an earlier model ?....... |
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Post by PeterEllis on Feb 25, 2006 19:29:09 GMT
Ok, it's not in the manual However I've found it, this is taken from the Driver Information Service Release 2 (sent to TTech drivers at the end of 1994) "........If you have too little end float it can cause the bearings to bind especially when the car is on the track where the chassis will be flexing. If your shaft needs adjustment one of your couplings will have to be removed and reset into the correct position. To remove the coupling carefully heat it with a butane flame or a gas hob, to melt the adhesive, and pull it from the shaft with a large rag. Do not use too much heat or let the flame come into contact with the carbon fibre of the prop shaft........ " only for alloy couplings, not composite ones |
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Post by Cooper on Feb 25, 2006 19:43:50 GMT
yup! this slipper had an broken piece of carbon shaft in it, removed it by heating with a lighter. The shaft needed is 5.5mm and not 6.3mm like all the other most recent shafts.
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Post by Northy on Feb 26, 2006 2:17:56 GMT
I find it's better to put the prop shaft into the freezer for a couple of hours then hold it over a gas flame, it breaks the glue quicker.
G
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on the Predator shaft.
