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Post by funkual on Apr 23, 2006 7:58:57 GMT
Morining, I need to get the prop shaft out of my xk98, and I'm figuring the best way is going to be to take one of the gear box tops off, with my tamiya its a simple undo 3 screws and off comes the gear box top afair, but not so with the pred, I'm figuring the front gear box cover will be the easiest to remove but could well be wrong. Can anyone advise me on the easiest way to go about it, I've got the xk98 manual well I think it is but doesn't provide much info, I've a feeling some of it is missing.
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Post by bainbridge on Apr 23, 2006 9:02:25 GMT
Hi,
take the rear gearbox off, should be 6 screws and you should be able to take the prop out, be carefull with the front one way, so you dont snap the tip of it off. it you take the front off only you wont get the prop past the motor mount. Hope this helps
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on Apr 23, 2006 15:20:34 GMT
Hi
I don't know about the xk but on the x10 both gear box tops need to be off.
I have tried it with only the rear one off & it feels like it will snap at the one way tip, so my advise is go the long way around at least that way you know it will stay in one piece.
my 2 cents.
good luck.
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Post by pro4nut on Apr 24, 2006 11:35:37 GMT
With you with that bigboss.
But in race conditions the rear top only tilt and slide method is often the only choice available, to change a spur gear using this method i can have the car apart and back together in about 15 minutes. But when at home i would always take both off, just in case. (more interesting than east enders at any rate, yes dear, hmm, yes, i thinks so to etc.)
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on Apr 24, 2006 17:39:24 GMT
Yes I agree during a race that way is a lot faster, taking the front G.Box cover is a pain & it is very time consuming.
During the second to last race we had here I broke a front G.Box top and had to replace it at the track, talk about your rush jobs.
I was a wreak by the time I was done & I lost the crash pin (didn't have a replacement of course. I have a spare now after the fact). I was thinking about that, it seems to me one should have a spare kit as a donor car just to be on the safe side and not to get stuck without any of the parts, this is after I added up all of the parts that were damaged & replaced by me on my car, easily crossing the 200.00 pounds mark( that's with shipping).
I don't live in the UK so I have to wait for the parts to get out of customs (paying them of course, making it more expensive) which can take two weeks or more. to me it would make sense as well as a lot of cents (or pence).
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Post by Cooper on Apr 24, 2006 21:23:39 GMT
hi bigboss, if you ever need a crashpin again and you don't have a spare, try a piece of antennetube, you might reinforce it with putting a 1mm (or was it 1.5mm) metal thing inside it.
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Post by funkual on Apr 25, 2006 8:09:44 GMT
Thanks for all the advice I'll have a go at it later, just wish the manual was a bit more useful it refers to diagrams ect that arn't there DOH!, the daft thing is i only want to remove the prop shaft so that I can get my new saddle pack in, I brought it pre- wired and the cable is to close to the prop shaft it rubs over the top, so I want to remove the prop shaft to put the saddle pack in and then pop the prop back in. I know I won't e able to remove the battery for the minute but thats cool because I've only got 1 saddle pack at the mintute, guess I'll have to re-solder at some point but never put a battery pack together so will have to do a bit of research first.
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Post by chris burgess on Apr 25, 2006 11:53:37 GMT
i don't think there will be enough room under the propshaft to allow you to do this. You would be much better getting your saddle pack re-built with a longer wire between the two packs.
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Post by Cooper on Apr 25, 2006 15:43:53 GMT
talking about saddle packs, I don't like the way most people solder the jumper wire, it rubs the prop shaft! I soldered 1pack like this and I didn't liked it, so I made al my others with 120° bend battery bars and soldered the jumper wire on top of them.
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Post by pro4nut on Apr 25, 2006 15:53:44 GMT
I use a 180 bent bar to give plenty of room with a short wire. i also have three packs of cells that are now 12 months old, zapped not matched GP 3300, if anyone wants them please pm offer, or give me a couple of days to work out what there worth and i will email back, actually how does £30 plus postage sound?
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on Apr 25, 2006 16:05:46 GMT
Thanks for all the advice I'll have a go at it later, just wish the manual was a bit more useful it refers to diagrams ect that arn't there DOH!, the daft thing is i only want to remove the prop shaft so that I can get my new saddle pack in, I brought it pre- wired and the cable is to close to the prop shaft it rubs over the top, so I want to remove the prop shaft to put the saddle pack in and then pop the prop back in. I know I won't e able to remove the battery for the minute but thats cool because I've only got 1 saddle pack at the mintute, guess I'll have to re-solder at some point but never put a battery pack together so will have to do a bit of research first. Be careful Funkual with soldering the battery pack, from your post I understand you don't have experience with that sort of thing, if I'm right, try to get a fellow racer to help you change the wire and look at what he does. batteries are very sensitive to temperature, the soldering is tricky at first and the duration of the iron on the area to be soldered is very short (the sorter the better for the cell). cells get damaged easily and are quite dear as you well know. If I was wrong about your soldering prowess, disregard this post. hope this helps. |
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Post by Northy on Apr 25, 2006 16:40:59 GMT
If we are talking about taking the front gearbox top off and re-fitting the same one (i.e. not changing it) its easy to take off in one big piece.
1. Remove the front wing (on the X10 only)
2. Remove the nose cone.
3. Remove the front carbon plate.
4. Remove the wishbone pins and let the wishbones hang free.
5. Remove the two nuts holding the shocks to the chassis mounts at the chassis end.
6. Remove the steering clevis from the steering arm.
7. Remove the 3 screws that hold the gearbox top on (1 front, 2 back).
8. Carefully remove the gearboxtop complete with rockers, wishbones, shocks and steering arms.
Easy when you've had plenty of practice ;D ;D ;D
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Post by funkual on Apr 25, 2006 20:41:42 GMT
Thanks northy, yeah your quite right I've not got a flinkin clue when it comes to soldering battery packs, bass guitars yes battery packs no. Unfortunately though I have the problem that I don't drive so no local tracks or anything and secondly around my area they're all nitro heads, not even any shops that cater for many electic parts, which sucks. I think looking at it though it should be ok under the prop but time will tell.
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Post by funkual on Apr 29, 2006 7:37:38 GMT
Oh well, I finally managed to get the time to remove the front gearbox thanks to Northy's instructions, but the cable still rubs underneath, still it was worth a try. Just hope there's a shop that know's how to re- solder near me we've got 2 in mansfield but they're more nitro based than electric but guess I can always ask. Thanks for all the help anyway.
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Post by pro4nut on Apr 29, 2006 9:56:01 GMT
I used to live in nottingham, there is a good shop in beeston and there is always geedee models in the lace market in the city centre. my offer still stands on my cells if you want them. They were only used in my pred as i have seperate packs for my B4 and Pro 4
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