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Post by Northy on Oct 18, 2005 17:59:57 GMT
Right, lets get this started.
Don't run it too high, you can in general run a Pred lower than most (if not all) other 4wd cars, and lower than you would probably ever think. Opinion at York last Saturday night was that this is because of the cars designed roll centre. If you run it too high it does strange things.
Run the front lower than the back. Allow for the front lifting under power.
Don't run the car too stiff, allow the front to move up and down a little.
You can probably gear a little higher than normal.
Thats all I can think of for now.
Anyone else want to add their findings so far?
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GAZ
New Member
IF YOU WANT TO BEAT THE REST GET THE BEST
Posts: 24
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Post by GAZ on Oct 18, 2005 19:38:08 GMT
I ran the car at the wrca welsh regional this sunday on a tight indoor carpet track with this setup:
55wt oil rear
40wt oil front
front lower than the rear as already said
1 degree of toe out on the front
2 degree toe in on the rear
3 degree camber on the rear
2 oring's on the oneway
everything else as kit setting's
11x2 check point with 15 pinion
on yellow mini pin's that are now knackered
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on Oct 18, 2005 19:52:08 GMT
Hi everyone, this is for the X-10 pred.
Well, I tried different oil & spacer clips on the rear but it was a bit washy and waged it's tail too much also bottomed out on our bumpy track.
So I went back to the setup sheet that came with the car and set the car to the "bumpy/clay" (I think that's what it was called) and WOW what a transformation,
the X-10 quite simply "hooked up", it ironed out the bumps(well most of them anyway) and cornered like a champ.
All that was left was to add a few very thin spacer clips to the front & rear and manufacture a new alloy plate/bar for the steering (instead of the carbon one that tore outward at the delrin bushing).
This car rocks! can not wait for the racing season to start.
for reference :
setup as per "bumpy/clay" track from the setup sheet
tires:losi blockheads (red) front,x-2000 (red) rear.
front is higher than rear.
cheers
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Post by chriscondon on Oct 19, 2005 12:59:58 GMT
Hi all, long time reader first time poster! Lots of good information here!
Just ordered a load of spares for the x10 over the web which is frustraing as the part nums in the manual are different to the site..think i got what i wanted!!
In terms of set up what would you guys recommend for astro turf with a control tyre of green mini spike? I am racing at Stotfold on the 30th Oct and will start of the set up as per the supplied sheet. Any changes anyone would recommend from the off?? Gear ratio anyone??
One problem i did encouter at my first meet on grass was grip roll. How do you compensate for grip roll? the car was handling the bumps ok so don't really want to mess with oil/springs too much!
Also i am having difficulty accurately measuring camber and toe in. On my TC the hudy set up board is used which makes it very easy to set a car up exactly, they don't do one (that i am aware of) for off road so can anyone list accurate lengths of the turnbuckles for the deifferent amounts of toe suggested in the set ups? When altering the front camber does the addition/removal of 1 washer add or decrease camber by 1 deg?
Thanks all for your help
Chris
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Post by chris burgess on Oct 21, 2005 8:48:53 GMT
I have been experienting with different shock oils over the last few days, and grabbing a couple of hours at the local track.....
I have got upto 50wt in the front now and 80wt in the back. The car is obvioulsly not as soft as it was with the kit recommendations, and to me it feels a lot better.
However it's "snatching" mid corner - i enter the corner, cars on rails, and then mid corner, out steps the back end. Quick opposite lock sorts it out, but it's not confidence inspiring as you can imagine.
Does anybody know what would be causing this to happen?
everything else is "stock" as per instructions......I am thinkning that my steering mod might be the root casue, if the length of the link bar is nor exactly the same as the original carbon rod - would a change in ackermann cause the "snatching" that I am experiencing?
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on Oct 21, 2005 20:54:52 GMT
Chris
I would lean towards weight transfer or lac of it in your case, more than ackerman angles. If you go up to a heavier oil viscosity & a spring to match the car it has more of a problem transferring weight from front to back & vice versa (also side to side)
if that happens the car becomes snappy as soon as you apply throttle (around the middle of the turn) to get the momentum going (and the car out of the corner).
what surface are you running of & what tire combination?
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Post by chris burgess on Oct 22, 2005 8:38:37 GMT
Thats a good point that.....
I was running on wet/damp grass with green minispikes all round (inside and outside row cut off the front) this setup worked well (with lighter oil!) the previous week!
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Post by Northy on Oct 22, 2005 9:44:46 GMT
Chris,
Your too heavy with the oil on the front.
Don't be worried about the front end moving up and down a little, infact this seems to be the way the car likes to be. I've also taken out the rebound valves.
G
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GAZ
New Member
IF YOU WANT TO BEAT THE REST GET THE BEST
Posts: 24
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Post by GAZ on Oct 23, 2005 17:15:47 GMT
Anyone got any tip's on how to get more steering. I just dont seem to be able to get the car to turn in sharp enough.
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Post by Cooper on Oct 23, 2005 18:14:03 GMT
Anyone got any tip's on how to get more steering. I just dont seem to be able to get the car to turn in sharp enough. more  I always have to much steering wit the P8 i'm looking to have less  |
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GAZ
New Member
IF YOU WANT TO BEAT THE REST GET THE BEST
Posts: 24
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Post by GAZ on Oct 23, 2005 18:19:53 GMT
When i turn in for a tight corner i alway's have to completely lay off the throttle, cause if i give it some going into the corner the car always seem's to go wide, leaving the gap wide open.
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Post by Northy on Oct 23, 2005 21:19:07 GMT
Gaz,
That's exactly the same problem I'm having at the moment on some tracks. I'm working on it.
Coop,
At the moment it seems to me that the P8 has more "turn-in" than the X10. If you've got too much on the P8 try droping the front upper outer wishbone pivot point down (remove spacers) to the top of the upright. Are you running the push rods in the front hole on the carbon plate? If so move it to the back.
G
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GAZ
New Member
IF YOU WANT TO BEAT THE REST GET THE BEST
Posts: 24
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Post by GAZ on Oct 30, 2005 18:29:11 GMT
Look's like i might have cured the problem with not having enough steering when indoor's.
I tried some Yellow schuey mini spikes all round and the car seem's to turn in alot better and i could get it to pivot around the corner's getting the back end out.
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swiss
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by swiss on Oct 30, 2005 19:46:25 GMT
I have been running on Astro, and I don't seem to be ble to get the 'turn in' that I like... I think the lock is their, but the initial bite doesn't seem to happen.. Any ideas, I was thinking of tighting the diffs up, front one a little looser than the rear...
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Post by Northy on Oct 30, 2005 19:56:33 GMT
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