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Post by TTECHAMERICA on May 4, 2006 12:17:53 GMT
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Post by chris burgess on May 4, 2006 13:53:09 GMT
obviously, all new stuff from T.Tech is good news, it underlines that the development of the car is going from strength to strength. But, if the new chassis is made from a newer stiffer material to the previous P8 chassis, why has the carbon one been developed?
Apart from the obvious weight and stiffness benefits, what else can be gained by using this chassis?
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on May 4, 2006 15:20:32 GMT
Chris, for one thing the ability to short your battery. LoL
Seriously the weight saving is the by product of the torsional rigidity gained from a stiffer material, Although saving weight is never a bad thing (quicker acceleration=yummy,I can't wait).
We will need to be more precise with our setups with this chassis.
I'm salivating already.
later
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Post by YoKoMo-MX4 on May 4, 2006 15:35:50 GMT
New CARBON FIB(ER|RE) chassis - I actually think the current X10 chassis is one of it's most unique features. I still distinctly remember remarking how heavy it felt when I first held the bare chassis molding ... and after assembling the car remarking how light the whole package felt. What I am getting at is, will lightening the core mess up the overall CoG of the car? I know less unsprung weight is usually a good thing (better acceleration and usually better corner speed) but I'm concerned that it might upset the bump (read USA-track) handling. Having that unsprung weight, running in conjunction with Newton’s 3, over a woops section isn't always a bad thing. I'm thinking that as traction nears infinity (read grass) a stiffer and lighter car is more desirable. I suppose this change to unsprung weight could be countered with slightly lighter springing/dampening ... any other thoughts on this?
Also, is this lighter/stiffer chassis a running change or optional part? Based on the description on TTechRacing.com it sounds like an option part. Just curious.
New Light Weight Rocker Pivots - What are the odds that these could be combined into a package deal with the new rocker cranks (Part # 110C) at a discounted price? A 'front end update' kit, if you will. [/dreaming]
'nuff said,
MX4
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Post by chris burgess on May 4, 2006 17:53:15 GMT
Chris, for one thing the ability to short your battery. LoL yes, that's the one that worries me the most. Personally, I can't wait to get my hands on one either, but something is telling me to stick with the chassis I have! |
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mattw
New Member
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Post by mattw on May 9, 2006 21:13:25 GMT
Anyone heard when the chassis will be generally available??
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mattw
New Member
Posts: 46
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Post by mattw on May 9, 2006 21:16:26 GMT
Actually, looks like it is listed on the web shop, so MAY be available now. I know there are a few about, just wondered if they were on general sale.
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Post by Northy on May 9, 2006 21:45:34 GMT
I've not tried to get one yet, but got my new front rockers. They're still upstairs in the bedroom though.....  G |
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on May 11, 2006 15:35:37 GMT
The chassis should be ready for sale in a week or so according to Gav(spoke to him 2 days ago, a well of info that one). also another fix that will be out soon is a stronger material pin that will replace the one that goes through the drive shaft(on the out drive side, where the little plastic out drive savers go), I have been having issues with the rear pins coming out & making a mess of things( so far 2 sets of out drives & 1 sheared rear drive shaft). And before coop says it I have changed the first one that came out with a drill bit shaft & glued it in with epoxy(so far its good). Thanks coop.
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Post by Northy on May 11, 2006 16:41:48 GMT
Bigboss,
I think I know why that happens. Check you don't have too much rear droop, which is allowing the plastic outdrive saver to come partially out of the outdrive.
Is it happening on one side more than the other by any chance?
G
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Post by pro4nut on May 11, 2006 18:21:10 GMT
An easy way of reducing droop that i have used since running the p8ish car i got last summer is to run internal droop limiters, for indoor running i have added 4mm front and 5mm rear. This was recommended to me by a driver of the older cars who no longer races offroad.
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on May 11, 2006 19:08:30 GMT
It happened once because of too much droop (on the right side, I followed the yanks set up sheet and screwed the ball joint on the rear shocks 2 turns out, thereby lengthening the shock. I promise not to do that again, ouch).the second time the car was at normal droop with the shocks at "normal" length. the left side this time. I asked Gavin about this and he said it mostly happens to brushless equipped X10's, all that extra power and all. Itsik's car is doing swimmingly with brushed power and not so much wear & tear.( we run our cars together at the same track).
I hope the car holds up. how's yours northy?
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Post by Northy on May 11, 2006 19:57:44 GMT
I've snapped half (yeah, thats right) a pin off one drive shaft. I gave that one back to Richard for investigation. I've also just bent half a pin, in the direction of the wheel, NOT the direction of drive. This is what has led me to believe it is due to suspension movement, if it was power related I don't think I would have only bent half the pin, and it would have also of been in the direction of drive. I have offered to send this driveshaft back to Richard. I also emailed him with what I thought, and he thanked me! ;D ;D ;D Both mine happened on the right hand side, where there is less outdrive due to shimming the diff accross. All I can suggest is you check your droop again and remember how much stuff could flex under racing conditions! Hope that helps. G |
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Post by pro4nut on May 13, 2006 7:59:01 GMT
I have used brushless and have not had this problem, i did wear through the other pins. I put droop spacers in the shocks so that the drive pin with plastic shields was always at least 1mm inside the outdrive. You can increase droop by changing mounting position although this will also change the rising rate.
My point is i think that the droop set at 'normal' is too great and needs to be reduced anyway.
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on May 13, 2006 10:13:22 GMT
You just might have a point there Pro4nut, about the droop I mean. I have a look see & a fiddle about, it might be the one thing I over looked. Do you guys run the shock ball end on the lower or middle hole?
I run mine on the lower hole, maybe that was my problem all along?
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