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Post by restimax on Aug 26, 2006 17:19:30 GMT
bud drive shaft broken! always behind, but why? in truth the rubber has been slipped into the circle behind a pebble stopping, stopped to me endured but at this point it was broken!!!:-(
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Post by chris burgess on Aug 26, 2006 17:59:30 GMT
i think that you have too much droop....the driveshaft can sometimes fall out of the outputshaft (due to the shimming required to get a perfect mesh inside the gearbox) an then when your car lands from a jump or a bump, the driveshaft is not in the correct position to go directly back into the output shaft, thus snapping the pin.
so, to cut a long story short, check your droop and run less droop if you can.
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Post by restimax on Aug 26, 2006 18:28:42 GMT
I would have to shorten the race of the shocks-absorber behind?
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Post by chris burgess on Aug 27, 2006 7:18:56 GMT
which hole on the wishbone on you running the shocka bsorbers in now?
I suspect you are using the bottom one - if you are move it to the middle hole.
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Post by restimax on Aug 27, 2006 8:30:00 GMT
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Post by pro4nut on Aug 27, 2006 10:02:13 GMT
do you have any limiters inside the shock. on the shaft behind the piston?
i have put just enough spacers to make sure when the suspension is at full extension both pins on the drive shaft are still fully engaged.
this was about 2mm of spacers i think.
i then broke a shaft same as you when i removed 1 shim when i rebuilt the shocks.
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Post by restimax on Aug 27, 2006 10:12:48 GMT
do you have any limiters inside the shock. on the shaft behind the piston? no, nobody.
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Post by restimax on Aug 27, 2006 10:15:58 GMT
it centers the fact that to times I find the alloy bearing wash rear turns to from their normal position?
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mattw
New Member
Posts: 46
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Post by mattw on Aug 31, 2006 19:44:54 GMT
This is a common problem, the pins are not strong enough. You should be able to press the part of pin out and replace it.
I didn't ever break any, but have changed mine to Needle rollers and still no problems with those.
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Post by restimax on Aug 31, 2006 19:52:57 GMT
in fact! it is what I have made, but I do not know if the new ones pin that use is resistant, I must try them
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Post by restimax on Sept 3, 2006 19:37:33 GMT
others 2 routes, I have ended the second qualification with three wheels!
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Post by chris burgess on Sept 3, 2006 20:15:18 GMT
what happened to the other wheel? how did your final go?
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Post by restimax on Sept 3, 2006 21:11:51 GMT
4 th in final B result final in the second qualification in the last turns me it is broken to bud drive shaft and therefore I have ended to the slow-motion last the 3 turns. to this point I have changed for emergency both the bud shaft drive rear
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Post by Cooper on Sept 3, 2006 21:29:33 GMT
@ MattW: could you give some more information about how you 'tuned' your shafts?
@ other people with to much power: try to find an old steel diff and old BUD shafts, maybe these work better in the rear.
but I don't know 100% sure if the old steel diff halves fit the X10..... (northy, chris, ..?)
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Post by restimax on Sept 4, 2006 8:26:36 GMT
i used a lrp sphere competition with star 4 equipped with 14 tooth pinion and spur 72.
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