|
|
Post by restimax on Aug 28, 2006 16:55:21 GMT
it is from some time that turning a wheel by hand I notice that to times the other jams and becomes hard the movement, insisting is unblocked and famous in the same moment a movement of the suspension to raise itself, this happens alone on the posterior one, differentiates them somantato in hand is perfect, could is i bud drive pins usurated? I do not succeed to understand what is! they could be the alloy diff half much usurated?  |
|
|
|
Post by Cooper on Aug 28, 2006 17:22:08 GMT
please try to explain again...
|
|
|
|
Post by restimax on Aug 28, 2006 17:33:40 GMT
;Dif I make to by hand turn a wheel behind, to times it stretches to block and if I insist of it unblocks, and I see in that moment the suspension to raise itself, what can be? therefore it goes better?  |
|
bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
|
Post by bigboss on Aug 28, 2006 17:46:42 GMT
Huh, Bubba I want some of the drugs you're on.
Seriously, from what I understand when you turn the rear wheel the other rear wheel sticks or jams & stops turning, Is this right?
then if you persist the rear suspension wants to raise itself?
in hand the diff feels fine?
Answer to your question if I'm correct so far:
1.drive shaft pin got loose & came out half way, now it's grinding the alloy bearing collar.
2.wheel bearing is shot(full of sand,dust,half of your track...).
Easy fix is to take the drive shaft out of the diff and have a look.
best of luck
|
|
|
|
Post by restimax on Aug 28, 2006 18:39:43 GMT
it's google translator... ;D ;D ;D it's correct but, the bearing is ok, idem the bud drive, the only pieces ruin to you are: bud drive pin, driveshaft cap, and the alloy diff. half. I have seen but that if I take apart and I mount the drive shaft it does not make it endured, ditto if I hold the crushed suspensions behind
|
|
|
|
Post by Cooper on Aug 28, 2006 22:07:51 GMT
broken diff ring ? (would not explain the raising of the suspension...)
|
|
silky
New Member
Posts: 29
|
Post by silky on Aug 28, 2006 22:33:47 GMT
I had a simalar problem on the weekend, ever since i had my X10 the rear diff always clicked when i turned the rear wheels, i rebuilt the diff many a time, it sounded horrible but the car always ran fine. Then yesterday, i went out for practice and as soon as i pulled off the car made a loud clicking sound and the rear diff just went loose. On inspection i took the rear gearbox top off, and the diff ring had broken into three pieces! I replaced both diff rings and rebuilt the diff. The diff was then lovely and smooth, and the car ran sweet. So I would recommend you try the same.
Good Luck
|
|
|
|
Post by restimax on Aug 29, 2006 7:06:07 GMT
taking apart it from the machine it diff. trying them by hand it is perfect. today I try to take apart to clean up it it in order and to replace well all with the new parts.  |
|
bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
|
Post by bigboss on Aug 29, 2006 15:18:56 GMT
I had a simalar problem on the weekend, ever since i had my X10 the rear diff always clicked when i turned the rear wheels, i rebuilt the diff many a time, it sounded horrible but the car always ran fine. Then yesterday, i went out for practice and as soon as i pulled off the car made a loud clicking sound and the rear diff just went loose. On inspection i took the rear gearbox top off, and the diff ring had broken into three pieces! I replaced both diff rings and rebuilt the diff. The diff was then lovely and smooth, and the car ran sweet. So I would recommend you try the same. Good Luck It happened to me as well a while back. Apparently, if you tighten the diff too much (over tighten) there is too much pressure on the rings and they crack in one place at first (that's the clicking sound you're hearing) but the car seems to be fine. after a while the ring gives out and breaks in another area (mine was also in three pieces), and the diff action is gone, usually after a jump when the diff loads up. my two cents worth. |
|
bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
|
Post by bigboss on Aug 29, 2006 15:26:22 GMT
taking apart it from the machine it diff. trying them by hand it is perfect. today I try to take apart to clean up it it in order and to replace well all with the new parts. Inspect the whole lot, Resti, you will be victorious in the end I'm sure. |
|
|
|
Post by restimax on Aug 29, 2006 23:02:14 GMT
;Dperhaps and I say perhaps I have resolved... ;D ;D ;D Sunday second test of the Italian championship  tomorrow I try well all and you story ;D |
|
|
|
Post by restimax on Aug 31, 2006 10:14:20 GMT
the problem is bud drive pin and drive shaft cap + diff alloy half much usurated... ;D
it is possible that with the regulated clutch softer than they ruin than less?
how regulated of usual the clutch?
hi,
|
|
|
|
Post by chris burgess on Aug 31, 2006 11:40:03 GMT
The driveshaft cap & pin are "designed" to wear. The idea behind this is that the cheaper parts will wear insted of the more expensive parts.
But, because you run on sandy/loose tracks I think you need to make sure that after each run the car is completely clean of all sand and dirt, espcially around the bearings and the diff outputs, because it is the sand that is wearing the parts away, not the slipper clutch being too tight.
Does this mean that you have solved the problem?
|
|
|
|
Post by restimax on Aug 31, 2006 12:05:33 GMT
I have not had the possibility to try the machine, but by hand the problem seems disappeared! monday I will know to say to you! we hope goes Sunday the contest well  |
|
|
|
Post by alfonzo on Aug 31, 2006 19:38:13 GMT
Good luck for Sunday mate |
|
