Post by DirtRacer on Jul 18, 2005 19:44:20 GMT
THE TEN MOST IMPORTANT TUNING TIPS
#1 The best way to increase the performance of a new stock motor (or any laydown brush motor) is to align the brush hoods.
(see the Black Book for how to do this properly). Not necessary with the new Reedy Krypton however.
#2 Clean the inside of your brush hoods REALLY well. This is how your motor gets it's power. Don't just spray it with motor spray (the Black Book has a great cleaning "How To" section). The brush shunt is only good for a 10A MAX.
#3 NEVER replace the brushes in a motor without retruing the commutator first. It's better to leave the old ones in if you don't have a lathe handy at the moment.
#4 The biggest reason for a new stock motor being slow is it's geared wrong. Try this. Gear the motor so it just peaks out as you let off the throttle to set up for the turn at the end of the longest straight. This is how you get your most speed. You can then adjust for run-time, infield punch, or motor temp. Don't rely on someone else telling you how to gear. I've seen stock motors of the same brand and type require a 5 tooth gear difference to be geared properly. Your lap times are the only criteria to use for proper gearing. Nothing else matters. Not motor temp and not maximum runtime (over the length of the race).
#5 I shouldn't have to say this but bushings and bearings need oil. I suggest the TRIBO while you're putting it on the comm. TRIBO R/C Power Matrix Comm Lube is the only "comm drops" Mike Reedy will allow on his team motors at any race.
#6 The biggest reason any motor slows down is poor commutation. This could be an out-of-round comm or bad brushes or both.
#7 The best dyno in the world is the track. Don't place too much value in "the numbers". And don't compare dyno's. They usually are never the same.
#8 When breaking in the brushes on a modified motor, set the endbell to zero timing first. This is the point that the brushes arc the least. So your comm won't have any heavy black areas to the left of the slot when you're done. Once the brushes are seated, then crank in your race timing.
#9 Most racers know that high-silver content brushes make the most power but are hardest on the commutator. Try putting a brush of lesser silver content on the negative side. This brush will deposit more graphite and other lubricants on the comm and make the high-silver brush on the positive side wear better. This is called the polarized brush system.
#10 Practice/patience makes perfect so dont rush anything!!
#1 The best way to increase the performance of a new stock motor (or any laydown brush motor) is to align the brush hoods.
(see the Black Book for how to do this properly). Not necessary with the new Reedy Krypton however.
#2 Clean the inside of your brush hoods REALLY well. This is how your motor gets it's power. Don't just spray it with motor spray (the Black Book has a great cleaning "How To" section). The brush shunt is only good for a 10A MAX.
#3 NEVER replace the brushes in a motor without retruing the commutator first. It's better to leave the old ones in if you don't have a lathe handy at the moment.
#4 The biggest reason for a new stock motor being slow is it's geared wrong. Try this. Gear the motor so it just peaks out as you let off the throttle to set up for the turn at the end of the longest straight. This is how you get your most speed. You can then adjust for run-time, infield punch, or motor temp. Don't rely on someone else telling you how to gear. I've seen stock motors of the same brand and type require a 5 tooth gear difference to be geared properly. Your lap times are the only criteria to use for proper gearing. Nothing else matters. Not motor temp and not maximum runtime (over the length of the race).
#5 I shouldn't have to say this but bushings and bearings need oil. I suggest the TRIBO while you're putting it on the comm. TRIBO R/C Power Matrix Comm Lube is the only "comm drops" Mike Reedy will allow on his team motors at any race.
#6 The biggest reason any motor slows down is poor commutation. This could be an out-of-round comm or bad brushes or both.
#7 The best dyno in the world is the track. Don't place too much value in "the numbers". And don't compare dyno's. They usually are never the same.
#8 When breaking in the brushes on a modified motor, set the endbell to zero timing first. This is the point that the brushes arc the least. So your comm won't have any heavy black areas to the left of the slot when you're done. Once the brushes are seated, then crank in your race timing.
#9 Most racers know that high-silver content brushes make the most power but are hardest on the commutator. Try putting a brush of lesser silver content on the negative side. This brush will deposit more graphite and other lubricants on the comm and make the high-silver brush on the positive side wear better. This is called the polarized brush system.
#10 Practice/patience makes perfect so dont rush anything!!
