oople
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Posts: 29
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Post by oople on Dec 19, 2005 10:31:32 GMT
Can anyone tell me why the front rocker pivot pins screw in all the way with fingers ? is there any way to make it actually hold in ? seems bizzare that there is no force required at all to screw something into the car.. have i missed some vital nut off the other side or what ? same with the back of the front shocks, the long grub screw wont hold in the chassis, the little nyloc nuts have more friction than the chassis!! Why do they pre tap the holes ? do people use glue on everything on this car ? car was very fast at bury metro and over a single lap it went quicker than my kyosho, but It fell apart twice. There seems a lot of off-centre misaligned holes on the car, the sort of thing you wouldnt do as badly if you used a hand held dremel.
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Post by chris burgess on Dec 19, 2005 12:13:33 GMT
the BIG problem with the car seems to be that a lot of the screw holes (just like the ones you mention) are manually drilled into the chassis/gearbox top after they have been moulded. Visible proof of manual "fettling" can be seen on the chassis, where the carbon steering link passes through. the chassis is dremeled out there to give clearance. (This no longer happens though, and is the reason behind the shape of the new steering link).
When i encounter this problem, I use PTFE tape on the screw to basically make the diameter of the screw larger.
It is unusual for the screws that hold the shocks in to be loose though. Maybe when the car was originally built, they were not screwed in straight.
Once you have got round all of these details with the car, it will be very good!
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oople
New Member
Posts: 29
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Post by oople on Dec 19, 2005 12:35:18 GMT
I will try the ptfe tape thing, thanks.. Ive glued it for now.. but its little stuff like that which let the car down.. The car deserves better than some of the quality.
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Post by Northy on Dec 19, 2005 13:03:29 GMT
I treadlock mine in Jimmy. In the past I have also used araldite!
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oople
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Posts: 29
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Post by oople on Dec 19, 2005 14:42:32 GMT
What about these "big ball ends" then, the ones that the front hubs pivot on in particular... is it just me or are these really tight ? I have a top end fet servo in the car and it has no trouble at all moving the steering, but they are tight, it binds the suspension a little also ofcourse. any way to free these up or do they need to be that tight ? im sure a standard servo would choke on this.
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Post by chris burgess on Dec 19, 2005 15:32:16 GMT
Check to make sure you have them on right, and that everything else is seated correctly.
My X10 has seemingly no resistance in the steering at all.
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oople
New Member
Posts: 29
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Post by oople on Dec 19, 2005 15:39:41 GMT
I'll have a look, could be just a dodgy batch... all of them are the same.. the smaller ones, like the push rods, toe adjusters, etc are all VERY free, to the point that they dont need a lot of force to pull off..
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Post by Northy on Dec 19, 2005 16:27:56 GMT
Jimmy, give them a squeeze with some big pliers, but be carefull the ball doesn't fly out and hit you in the eye!
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oople
New Member
Posts: 29
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Post by oople on Dec 19, 2005 19:35:34 GMT
Is that for the loose ones graham ? Ill try that.. the stiff ones, took em apart, nothing wrong with them, they are just very stiff.. either the balls are a funny shape or the mouldings are a bit off.. im leaning toward the balls (!!!!!!) being a funny shape to be honest, they have tight spots when level, and a shallow angle they are fine... if that makes sense..
im taking the car apart and rebuilding it, yes, after only 2 runs and a few practice laps.. i noticed a lot of wear on the drive pins, so much that they couldnt be removed from the axels.. on all 4 corners.. is this normal ? i noticed the dogbone where the pin goes through it has very sharp edges, could this be the problem ?
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Post by Northy on Dec 19, 2005 21:10:31 GMT
Jimmy, don't do it on the loose ones, do it on the tight ones. It stretches the plastic a bit to loosen them up.
The pins must be greased to reduce wear. You have to replace it from time to time as it gets thrown out. They are supposed to wear as they are much cheaper to replace than a drive shaft or stub axel.
Cheers,
G
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Post by psteers on Dec 22, 2005 3:00:55 GMT
My front rocker pivots are loose too. The holes may be stripped. Does threadlocking them into the chassis really do much, or should I just go ahead and use something more substantial?
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oople
New Member
Posts: 29
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Post by oople on Dec 22, 2005 13:43:09 GMT
Ive used CA, but be carefull, i glued my top gearbox to the bottom!!!!! ;D fixed now though.. the pins are much better now.. Ive been told araldite (epoxy juice) is the stuff to use...
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Post by Northy on Dec 22, 2005 15:48:28 GMT
Go for araldite if they're already loose.
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Post by psteers on Dec 22, 2005 15:49:19 GMT
That just seems a little permanent if the rocker crank should ever shear at the hex. CA can be de-bonded with acetone or other solvent - epoxy is pretty permanent.
But - If you say so - I'll give it a try.
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oople
New Member
Posts: 29
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Post by oople on Dec 22, 2005 15:57:03 GMT
and acetone will probably melt the gearbox... lol
superglue wont hold the pin in if you want to remove it, neither will araldite.. it will just stop it moving when you dont want it..
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