Gearbox Housing

[silky]

Hi, Is there any need on the X10, to drill a hole in the rear gearbox top, and insert a grub screw onto the bearing. I know you had to do this with the older preds, but does has anyone done this on the X10?
My Spur gear does lift a fraction, so i was just wondering if i needed the grub screw just to hold the rear bearing in place?

Thanks in advance,

Ben

[Cooper]

it wouldn't be bad I think...

[Northy]

Yeah, I would.
Have you added the extra rear bearing?

[silky]

I haven't no, i just have the pinion collars, but i take it they would make no difference anyway. One of the lads at ttech said there was no point in putting the added bearing in??? Have you guys got the added bearing? If i need one wheres the best place to get one?

Cheers

Ben

[silky]

I ordered a 6x12x4 bearing today, so it should be ok once i have put that behind the spur gear.

Just wondering, is there any dremeling etc, needed to do this bearing mod???

Ben

[silky]

Just finished the rear bearing mod. I had to remove the o ring over the rear pinion though, otherwise there was no play whatsoever on the propshaft (front to rear), but when i removed the o ring i have about 1mm of play front to rear, and no play up or down (on the spur). I hope this makes some sense to someone.

Is what i have done ok??

Cheers

Ben

[Northy]

Yeah that's the same as mine.

I suggest you take the rear diff out though and screw the rear gearbox top down and check the transmission runs smooth.

If it doesn't remove the bearing (back to stock) and put the gearbox top back on (still no diff) and see if its better. If it is, post here and I'll try and post pictures of what you need to do.

Cheers,

G

[silky]

Northy,

I did what you said, and it was just the same with, or without the bearing, so i put it back together with it in.

Off the subject - the holes in my chassis for the servo are way off, they are about 4-5mm wider than the servo, i take it this is not right is it???

Cheers

Ben

[Cooper]

probably your servo isn't standard size ?

[darren]

I had the same issue with my servo (Airtronics 358). I installed one side okay and then noted the other was off. As it works out, most servos vary some what in length and width. Futaba however fit perfectly and seem to be the servo of choice for most people. IMO, Ttech should elongate the hole near the back to accomodate the servos.
I loosened off the one side to allow the servo to move around, and put in the screw on the other side on an angle to catch the servo post. After I tightened, everything is all good now. I also used some shoe goo to secure the servo. Shoe goo is a silicone based glue that will peel off the chassis if you want to remove it without ruining that chassis

[silky]

Just got the servo in, the same way as you had to darren, but it looks fine now, the long steering arm is a bit of a pain, any tips on that anyone.

Cheers

Ben

[YoKoMo-MX4]

darren said:

I also used some shoe goo to secure the servo. Shoe goo is ...

... also known as a Corally drivers best friend (at least with 12th Corally scales) ;D ;D ;D ;D

silky said:

Just got the servo in, the same way as you had to darren, but it looks fine now, the long steering arm is a bit of a pain, any tips on that anyone.

The first option if your servo is a bit short would be to use only one post (or maybe none?) and then servo tape the puppy in there. Also, drilling a new hole and countersinking the chassis would be simple enough if you have the right tools.

I used a JR Z9000S servo and it fit perfectly (the main reason I bought it, actually).

On to the the steering arm. I used the servo mounts from the Associated B4 (or T4) 'flipped around' to put the servo closer to the center of chassis (I think this was a Northy mod). I seem to recall I had to shave some off the servo ears and also used some of the included spacers ... but I don't recall exactly ... set it and forget it as they say. Oh, and be sure to use a servo saver if you value your servo AND you may need to open the hole in the chassis a bit to aid steering arm clearance.

ANYWAY ... the point of all of that was to make the steering arm travel in an as-straght-as-possible path. This eliminates any binding at the pivot ball or clevis. The steering system on the X10 is pure genious IMHO [humble, ya righ! ]

If you look at the phots I linked to in this post you will see the way I've got things wedged in there.

'nuff said,
MX4

[chris burgess]

yup, the bit about using the B4/T4 servo mounts to move the servo back is worthwhile - prior to doing this (on older models) I used to enlarge the hole in the chassis that the steering arm goes through to ensure I had clearance.

I then put a rubber grommit in the hole and ran the steering arm through that to keep any moisture or debris from getting lodged in the hole. Because the rubber is so pliable on the grommit, there was no binding. You can always add a touch of shock oil to the i/d of the grommit to make doubly sure.

[YoKoMo-MX4]

And once all is in order add a drop of threadlock on the threads at the clevis end. That way it won't move on you.

I really like Chris' suggestion. Although I won't really have to worry about moisture, keeping dirt and rocks out is always a good idea.

'nuff said,
MX4

[Itsik]

Airtronics servos required to enlarge the mounting hole on older cars as well. I've done that on each and every car I drove.
Re. the steering link, of you put it in with the bend in the wire in the correct angle, there's no need to adjust anything nor is there any binding. I'll try to explain although I'm not sure I can be clear enough.
When the link is positioned correctly, it exits the servo arm going downward and a little to the center of the chassis, after the band, looking from the side, it joins the steering arm straight and looking from the top it turns a little more toward the center of the car ...
Sorry for not being able to explain it more clearly, maybe one of the guys with the English for his native language can clarify this more
Re. the servo saver, IMHO, the car does not need a servo saver as the link it self acts as one, I've never used one, nor did I ever break a servo because of it.
A simple, large servo arm (most high-end servos come with one of those now ...) will be more then enough.

My 2 cents ...