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Post by Cooper on Jul 18, 2006 9:07:48 GMT
front gearbox topsfront lower wishbonecrash pinsball jointsdelrin steering shouldersBUD drive shaft pinsballsspur geardiff platesshock O-ringsdriveshafts (front and rear) assortment of screws and ball joints front hubs rear hubs rear lower wishbone (don't need it as long as nobody wants to hit you in the ass) front carbon plate those little metal spacers that go between the front hub and the top front wishbone bold items are the most important for crashes underlined items are items that are sensitive for normal wear and tear like every car has. other items are for hard crashes and other loss  if anyone wants to add things (from other posts) feel free to reply. I've did a search on the board and combined it in this post.
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mattw
New Member
Posts: 46
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Post by mattw on Jul 18, 2006 17:25:40 GMT
Personally i'd put rear hubs much higher. So far i've broken 2 of these, 1 gearbox top and one ball joint. That's all i have had to replace so far.
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Post by Northy on Jul 18, 2006 20:04:29 GMT
Matt,
If you put a bolt all the way through the rear hubs (as per my build tips) you'll never break another one! ;D
G
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mattw
New Member
Posts: 46
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Post by mattw on Jul 18, 2006 21:17:47 GMT
Yeah, Someone suggested that before i even bought the car, but just never got round to it!! I did mention at the weekend that i really ought to do it now that i've broken 2. Cheers for the tip none the less!
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Post by restimax on Jul 19, 2006 6:55:24 GMT
i carry: the kit race spare pack, spure gears, front top gearbox, but Sunday is served to me also: bud drive shaft rear and driveshaft cap...  the driveshat it seems to me are fragile? ::)idem blades or cap...  |
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Post by Northy on Jul 19, 2006 11:32:49 GMT
There are some stronger pins for the rear drive shafts now, if you contact TTech they'll sort you out with some.
Cheers,
G
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Post by restimax on Jul 19, 2006 20:11:57 GMT
thanks, excuse me for off-topic, but: the artic white race wheel can be unglued from tyres?and like? ;D  |
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Post by Northy on Jul 19, 2006 21:03:14 GMT
Yes, just use Acetone. I've just done some, they were in for a couple of days and came out fine.
G
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Post by restimax on Jul 19, 2006 21:49:28 GMT
but they are not gotten ruined? |
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Post by Northy on Jul 20, 2006 6:54:42 GMT
Not the new artic white race wheels, they are ok in acetone.
G
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Post by unstable on Jul 30, 2006 7:21:00 GMT
Hello people. I race a Pred in Zew Zealand, I was just looking on here to see if anyone else had problems with the rear driveshafts... seems I am not alone.
I have had it happen twice now, both while practicing luckily. First time it snapped the pin off clean. Second time the pin worked out one side and cut its way right through the bearing retainer before pinging out and leaving me with 3wd.
Good to hear TTech is on to a solution.
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Post by restimax on Jul 30, 2006 11:15:23 GMT
I task that the driveshafts they are under determine the proportions, and fragile, it must have them a more large  hi |
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on Jul 30, 2006 17:10:02 GMT
Hello people. I race a Pred in Zew Zealand, I was just looking on here to see if anyone else had problems with the rear driveshafts... seems I am not alone. I have had it happen twice now, both while practicing luckily. First time it snapped the pin off clean. Second time the pin worked out one side and cut its way right through the bearing retainer before pinging out and leaving me with 3wd. Good to hear TTech is on to a solution. Hi Unstable yes, It has happened to a few of us, especially if you run brushless(the hot winds)or a low turn brush type. I found out the hard way (3 times) that a short phone call away there is a man called Gavin (who can & is willing to help), a wealth of info flows out of this guy.Anyway he explained to me in terms I can understand the problem with the drive shaft cross pins & the fix they will be producing soon (this was a few months back). It helped me out at the time, At any rate. Well worth the money spent on the overseas call. Next time give it a shot. mind, this stopped happening to my car as soon as I reverted back to brushed type (a lot less wear to the car in general if you ask me). hope this helps |
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Post by pro4nut on Jul 31, 2006 7:29:43 GMT
I have never damaged a rear shaft but what i have done is to use droop limiters in the rearshocks to ensure that at full down travel the blade at the end of the shaft is always fully engaged at the lowest point of travel. This means putting about 1.5mm of spacers on the shock shaft behind the piston.
Just re read that i mean on the shaft under the bottom circlip.
As far as things to take with you when racing i would recommend a few grams of luck and half a kilo of patience these seem to help me along no end.
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