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Post by chris burgess on Nov 12, 2006 19:24:50 GMT
some of the earlier wheels, ie the ones that are not described as "arctic white" were a little fragile to say the least.
the newer wheels, ie the "arctic white" ones are a lot stronger, and are resistant to acetone too.
could it be possible that you have tightened them up way too much if you are experiencing the centres being ripped out?
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gramey
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by gramey on Nov 12, 2006 21:11:36 GMT
:(Chris, We've been rc racing for 3 1/2 years now, not the longest I admit, but I don't tighten my Predator wheels any tighter than our TC's. The only time I've had a centre rip out on a TC is when my son insisted on having a set of chrome plated wheels for his car, he's never asked for them since. I appreciate that they are subject to a higher load than TC wheels which makes it all the more amazing that there is no internal webbing in these wheels to strengthen them. The dished TC wheels that we buy have strengthening on the inside and yet these wheels do not. At least with TC's you have the option to change to a different manufacturers wheels, if you find you don't like a particular make (i.e. lack of durability/too much/too litttle flex etc.) With these your screwed and stuck with buying ttech wheels due to the drive discs!  |
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Post by wailinonya on Nov 13, 2006 4:24:48 GMT
The only time I had the center of the rim break out was when I accidently put one of the front X hubs on backwards with the tapered end to the bearing. I do admit though that the original rims are as fragile as glass, every rim is cracked and has chips out of it but I haven't had one fail to the point of unuseability yet. So far they stay together till the tires are shot anyway. I haven't used any of the New Arctic White ones yet.
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Post by alfonzo on Nov 13, 2006 8:08:47 GMT
Blimey! I think that's a first! Certainly to my knowledge..
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Post by Northy on Nov 13, 2006 12:42:16 GMT
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Post by alfonzo on Nov 13, 2006 15:40:31 GMT
I'd like some of those! Do they have a single drive 'lump' as opposed to the cross style engagement of the X10? If so, I have a front pair - just need the rears..  |
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Post by Cooper on Nov 18, 2006 23:20:51 GMT
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Post by alfonzo on Nov 19, 2006 15:10:52 GMT
Thanks Cooper! |
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gramey
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by gramey on Nov 19, 2006 21:19:32 GMT
:(I saw those but there are only 1 pair of rears and do like to go for a balanced look when it's flying upside down through the air! |
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tom
New Member
Posts: 17
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Post by tom on Dec 16, 2006 17:52:03 GMT
Bah - when I stopped running my ETQ we sold all th wheels and tyres - must have been 20-30 sets! Doh!
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slypdawg
New Member
the kid from across the pond
Posts: 7
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Post by slypdawg on Jan 8, 2007 22:33:52 GMT
would it be possible to fit a 12mm hex to the T-Tech axles? also, I wonder why they went with the drive-disk style of wheel attachment rather than something more universal? I'm sure that if someone with enough skill at a CNC machine could make a 12mm hex to go in place of the X-drive thing, but it would be so much easier and cheaper if we could fit pre-existing hexes to the X-10s and XRSs
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on Jan 9, 2007 17:52:18 GMT
If you look at the way the X10's suspension arms, uprights etc. fit into the wheel rim you would see that there isn't a lot of space left over for wheel flex. now, say you go ahead & fit a hex adapter instead of the X drive disk & bolt on Kyosho ZX5 rims (which are cheaper than the "Arctic White" rims, true, but they are also very "soft" in comparison. in other words they have flex (ergo wheel flex).
The outcome of this will be erratic handling after hitting a bump or landing from a jump not to mention driving on a high grip surface where wheel flex will make the car a real handful around the most demanding of turns. Think about it all the wheel has to support itself is the flat side of a 12 mm hex ! a small area when compared to the area that supports the wheel on an X drive.
Couple both of these factors together and I believe you will see what I trying to say here.
Just squeeze any hex drive wheel in your hand & you will get the wheel to deform, now try it with an "Arctic white" wheel....
Get it..... good.
car was designed by a genius lets not forget.
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gramey
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by gramey on Jan 12, 2007 22:04:07 GMT
:)bigboss, the car may have been designed by a genius but it doesn't mean to say it's without it's faults. There are fors and against's for both rigid and slightly more flexible wheels. I can't say I noticed too much problem with the Kyosho wheels when a club member did me on the last bend of the last lap snatching 2nd place from me last Sunday! It may be our style of driving but my son and I have rarely broken a wheel in the past couple of years rc racing until we got these XRS's. We've had 1/10 TC's, not as rough but the concrete kerbs/wooden boards are harder than soil, 1/8th nitro buggies, 1/5th scale Marder Race. Never broke a wheel on the nitro's or Marder. Now we're going through wheels like they're going out of fashion and it's really starting to tick me off. As soon as I've found out which buggy/buggies run identical length drive shafts I shall probably fit Tamiya drive shafts & axles to allow the fitment of hex drive wheels. |
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on Jan 13, 2007 8:07:01 GMT
Hi Gramey
I see your point. What I was saying In the previous post was that RW designed the car & components with the best of performance in mind, however I do agree with you that the car does not stand up well to sudden impacts such as you have described (from my own experience as well as yours).
If you make the changes you suggested & it works for you and your son, more power to you. It is better to finish a race than to DNF, thats for sure. I wish you luck & hope you get to enjoy the racing.
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