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Post by southwell on Nov 6, 2006 11:34:16 GMT
Hi, Iam getting serious overheating issues with my X10. The motor even came unsoldered! Any causes for this? The tranny is very free. I tried, 10x2 V2, 20/ stock spur 12x1 21/ stock spur 12x1 22/ stock spur With 4200 cells.  Cheers. |
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Post by Cooper on Nov 6, 2006 11:41:14 GMT
got a fan mounted? otherwise, you should ;D
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Post by chris burgess on Nov 6, 2006 11:53:52 GMT
i had this problem yesterday running my 13x1 V2 motor.....
i put it down to the track being very "point and squirt" if you know what I mean, there was nothing flowing about the layout I was on.
As long as you have all of the air vents in, and when indoors, a fan in there somewhere, you should be OK, although your gearing looks a little tall. I am sure Yardy runs his 10 on an 18 pinion, although I could well be wrong - check his setup in the "setups" section to see.
What you can try, is getting some solder with a higher melting point, and using that too.
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Post by southwell on Nov 6, 2006 12:07:12 GMT
I ran my gearing according to Yardys, so it should have been spot on.
There is a heasink in there, i have a fan just havent had time to sort it yet.
I was just suprised as this was at tivvy and it was FREEZING!
The track was fairly 'point and squirt' but i borrowed a BX for the last rnd n the final and ran the final and another few mins after with no problems at all, and that car had no cooling vents at all.
My solder is Deans, but i will re wire and try again!
Cheers
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Post by chris burgess on Nov 6, 2006 12:21:30 GMT
I'll resist the ..."well ask Dean to get some better solder..." line ;D
Your problem may have been down to soldering the motors up in the cold too - it's hard enough to solder a V2 outdoors in the summer, let alone in the winter, so maybe your connections just weren't good enough.
Was the motor in the car stonking hot when you got it back? ie way hotter than you would have expected it to be?
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Post by southwell on Nov 6, 2006 12:39:43 GMT
;D
The 10x2 was soldered at home, and the joint seemed very strong. (iam pretty good at soldering)
The motor came off baking hot. Although i had the same kind of problems in the xx4, just never unsoldered.
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Post by Cooper on Nov 6, 2006 12:59:56 GMT
This sounds like Touring! you should run on 5 cells like EFRA decided for Tc's  |
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Post by chris burgess on Nov 6, 2006 13:00:47 GMT
oh well - the soldering might not be the fault then! It was worth sugegsting it all the same.
If your motor was stonking hot, then I personally would look at the gearing - i know you have followed Yardy's lead, but there may be other factors at play here.
hopefully Mr Yardy will pop by soon and offer some advice
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bigboss
Full Member
preds rule,the others are too slow!
Posts: 196
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Post by bigboss on Nov 6, 2006 16:28:33 GMT
Just thought I'd step in & share this with you.
We run the cars in a hot country so, in summer with all vents open the solder joints still come off, with 2 fans however all is well & we finish the race no problem.
As for the gearing I found that the manual & yardy's setup are highly over geared for our usage/track conditions. I mean the car has too much speed for the rutted straight we have, and even if you're brave/stupid enough to keep it pinned past your braking point the car will not reach top speed.
After testing the pinion that gave me enough speed/less heat I found was 19 tooth when the manual suggested 21 tooth.
You say you are good with the soldering & I have no reason to believe any different, but the V2 motors are quite hard to work with (I use them as well), does it happen with other end belled motors ( non V2 motors)?
The thing is as the heat goes up so does the resistance which in turn gives you more heat, It's a vicious cycle. over gearing produces hight temp very quickly, that alone could be your problem.
my 2 cents worth.
Oh yes, another thing to keep in mind is the cells.
These produce more volts (up to 1.27 volts per cell!!) this will heat the motor in no time at all, especially if it's over geared.
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Post by southwell on Nov 6, 2006 19:24:21 GMT
Ok, thanks for your input. I will try gearing it down a bit and getting my fan in there before i run it again.
I only run V2's in my 4wd cars mainly because the brush wear is a lot less in 4wd than with a standard endbell motor.
Cheers
Ian
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yardy
New Member
Posts: 41
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Post by yardy on Nov 6, 2006 21:56:01 GMT
Hello,
Sorry I haven't been on here in a while, I've had a lot going on...
When I ran at Tiverton, as some have rightly stated I was geared on 20/73 on a 10x2 v2 motor. This was with 12degrees(2 marks) timing and sprint brushes.
Running indoor at tiverton generates a lot of heat anyway... the size of the tyres when they balloon is a big reason for this (I'm assuming you were on step pins Ian!) all I can tell you is that when I raced there for the national apart from when I was geared on a 21 earlier in the day, I had no heat issues. I would guess that being as you raced there in the winter series, the level of resistance will be higher because the clay is thicker than it would have been at the nat. All I can suggest is the usual... try going down on the gearing, cut the air holes out, fit a fan... buy a TCS when they're available!!! ;D
Unfortunately, we have no choice but to accept that 4wd's run very hot now, and the V2 motor endbells transmit a lot of that heat causing wire melt off... just do all the usual things is all I can really recommend at the moment mate, never be tempted to adjust the V2 standard timing is one thing we always found.
I hope you get it sorted... how did the car actually perform on the track?
Yardy
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Post by Northy on Nov 6, 2006 22:29:40 GMT
I'll just add one thing, make sure the hot air has somewhere to get out too! Cut the body at the back of the motor to let it out. I also cut the top half out of the window, can be seen here during a bod moment: myweb.tiscali.co.uk/northernracer1/oswestry4wd/32.htmNever had a problem since, but would not be allowed at the Euros!  That was Osfest btw, I never had a problem that day and you'll remember that was a hard day on motors. Was running a KR too! Cheers, G |
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Post by Cooper on Nov 6, 2006 22:43:01 GMT
and in addition to G.... warm air needs a bigger hole than cold air (elements moving harder, needing more space, remember your physics lessons)  |
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Post by southwell on Nov 7, 2006 9:26:35 GMT
Cool, cheers for the help guys. Tom, The car was brilliant in the 2nd+3rd round (at the beginning!) and was right on the pace with most of the guys, i even got a 4th in the only round i finished with a spur gear destroying itself for most of the race, which shows how quick the car would be with a fully functioning tranny, and me not trying to protect it the whole race! Hopefully i can get some running up at Lee's, that will test the car, and the spur with all the jumps there! G, Cheers for the help mate, i appreciate it! Cooper, I have cut out the rear quite a bit anyway, but i suppose a bit more cant help  P.S. has anyone got pics of how they've mounted their fans? I have one which clips to the motor, but fouls the body. Cheers Ian |
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